Produttori del Barbaresco Cru Tasting
@ Convivio Restaurant, NYC (1/14/2009)
This dinner was organized by Mannie Berk of
The Rare Wine Co. in Sonoma, CA.
Here is the email announcing this dinner.
It was very well organized with one flight for each top vintage going backward from 1996 to 1978.
The guest of honor was the managing director of the Produttori del Barbaresco, Aldo Vacca,
who led us through the tasting commenting on the winery and each vintage we tasted.
Aldo is a very annimated and interesting speaker.
There are quite a few photos of him below.
Each of 5 vintages (1996, 1989, 1988, 1985, 1978) got its own flight.
Two top vintages missing from this range are the 1990 and 1982.
Fortunately, I got to taste four good examples from 1990 and one from 1982, as well as others,
at a later event with another group.
Another Produttori dinner was organized by Rare Wine Co in March 2012.
My notes from that dinner are here.
The Produttori del Barbaresco
is a cooperative in the Commune of Barbaresco. It was founded in 1958, though an earlier version
(founded in 1894) was shut down by the fascists in the 1920's.
According to their website,
The Produttori del Barbaresco … now has 56 members and
100 hectares (250 acres) of Nebbiolo vineyards in the Barbaresco appellation,
which amounts to almost 1/6 of the vineyards of the area.
Each family is in full control of its land, growing Nebbiolo grapes with centuries old skill and dedication.
The winery produces a Barbaresco D.O.C.G. [which is] a blend of Nebbiolo grapes harvested from different vineyards,
and a simpler Nebbiolo Langhe suited for earlier consumption.
In great vintages, nine single-vineyard Barbarescos are produced from nine classic premium sites
within the Barbaresco village boundaries:
Asili, Rabajà, Pora, Montestefano, Ovello, Pajé, Montefico, Moccagatta and Rio Sordo.
These are the geographical names of sites where Nebbiolo grapes have always been cultivated.
The names of the single-vineyards, the total number of bottles produced, and
the name of the owners of the vineyards are marked on the labels.
The Produttori del Barbaresco, which vinifies only Nebbiolo grapes,
produces around 420,000 bottles (35,000 cases) per year.
In a good vintage they are divided among Barbaresco (40%),
single vineyard Barbarescos (40%) and Nebbiolo Langhe (20%).
You can find much more information about the winery and its wines at the
Fine Wine Geek's Produttori page.
The Restaurant
Convivio was a very good restaurant, but sadly it
closed in 2011 along with its sister restaurant, Alto.
It was in a unique location in
Tudor City just south of UN Headquarters
on the eastern edge of Manhattan.
Click on an image for a larger view of that image.
Entering Tudor City from 42nd St. |
The Entrance to Convivio in Tudor City. |
The Entrance to Convivio in Tudor City. |
The Program for the Evening. |
The Wine and Food
All the wines were from the Produttori del Barbaresco,
a cooperative in the Commune of Barbaresco.
All the wines were single-vineyard riservas except for the 1988 Trentennio,
which is a special 30th anniversary blend of several vineyards.
Here are most of the wines for the evening.
Individual bottle shots (as well as much more information on the Produttori)
can be found on the
Fine Wine Geek Produttori Page.
Flight 1: 1996
With Polenta con Fegatini di Pollo alla Salvia
(creamy polenta, crispy chicken livers, sage).
- 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
Gorgeous, subtle Nebbiolo nose. Tart and tannic; bright and beautiful. 92 points.
- 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pora
Sweeter fruit in nose. Slight green streak in the mouth, but very appealing. 91 points.
- 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pajé
Muted nose. Very tannic and acidic. 90–? points.
- 1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
A lot of perfume. A lot of breadth and depth. Hands down WOTF. 94 points.
Flight 2: 1989
Stracci di Pasta Fresca con Funghi e Tartufo Nero
(rags of pasta, wild mushroom ragu, fresh black truffles).
- 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
Big nose of cherries, licorice, and slate. Long finish. Drying tannins.
Great length. Excellent structure. 92 points.
- 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pora
Sweet fruit. Long. Drying tannins. Ethereal. 93 points.
- 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Asili
Expansive. Wow! What perfume in the mouth. WOTN so far! 94–95 points.
- 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano (magnum)
More forward nose. Quite expansive in the mouth. Terrific wine! 94 points.
I love these 1989s!
Flight 3: 1988
Tortelli di Amatrice con Fonduta di Cacio e Pepe
(amatriciana filled pasta, black pepper, pecorino cream).
- 1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo
Sweet waxy cherry nose. Tart cherries. Somewhat dried out. 88 points.
- 1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pajé
Corky nose. Mildly corked cherries. NR.
- 1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Mocagatta
Dried out. Tarry. Disappointing. 86 points.
- 1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Asili
Appealing greenness in nose. Tannic and austere, but more fruit and
structure than any of the other 88s so far. 89 points.
- 1988 Produttori del Barbaresco
Trentennio
[Special 30th Anniversary bottling.
Blend of Pora, Ovello, Mocagatta, Montestefano, and Rio Sordo.]
Mint cherry nose. Balanced tasty. Ready. WOTF 91 points.
Flight 4: 1985
Piccione Arrosto con Cime di Rape e Finocchio
(roasted squab, broccoli rabe, fennel, black olives).
Aldo Vacca said this was a bad year for them. They hired a new winemaker in 1984.
He cut the fermentation time down to 2 weeks (from the traditional 5 weeks).
This was a very bad move in this light ripe vintage.
The new winemaker was fired after 1985.
- 1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
Cherry and dirt nose. Sweet, ripe. Medium length.
Noticeably shorter than the 89s or 96s. 89 points.
- 1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pora
Lovely but drying out. 88 points.
- 1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
Gorgeous, complex. Easily WOTF. 92 points.
Flight 5: 1978
Formaggi d'Italia (clockwise from upper left):
Pecorino from Campania, Pecorino Rosso from Tuscany, Robiola from Piedmont.
Aldo Vacca said that the 1978s were almost undrinkable when they were young.
- 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Pora
Gorgeous, effusive nose. Beautiful mellow tannins. Lovely stuff. 93 points.
- 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montefico
Muted nose of sandalwood, mint, and red fruit. Terrific wine. Clearly at its peak.
Great length. 95 points. Tied for WOTN so far!
- 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo
Gorgeous dried cherry nose. Expansive, tannic cherries. This one could still improve! 92–93 points.
- 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
Wow! Has such depth, power and complexity. This is the WOTN. Great wine! 96 points.
- 1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano
This wine is off. Too bad. NR.
Others' Notes
The People
Click on an image for a larger view of that image.
My table (#2): John Gilman (l), Hank Silverman (r). |
My table (#2): Hank Silverman (l), Stefano Fusi (c). |
My table (#2): Ray DeAngelo 2nd from right. |
Mannie Berk of Rare Wine Co introduces Aldo Vacca. |
Table 4: Eric Guido, Greg dal Piaz in blue shirts,
Henry Kahn, Marty Neschis across from them. |
Table 3 listens attentively
to Mannie introducing Aldo. |
Scott Silton, Ed McCarthy, Mary Ewing-Mulligan,
Antonio Galloni, Aldo Vacca at Table 1. |
Aldo Vacca listens to
Mannie introduce him. |
Aldo Vacca speaks passionately about Barbaresco and the Produttori del Barbaresco.
Aldo Vacca talks about the next flight.
Paul Jaouen. |
Table 3: Joe Gagliano 2nd from left. |
Table 4: Henry explains, Marty & others listen. |
Table 4: Greg dal Piaz (center), Eric Guido (right). |
Table 1: Scott, Ed, Mary, Antonio. |
Table 1: Mannie, Dan Tisch, Paul Jaouen. |
Table 1: Dan be sophisticated! |
Table 1: Aldo and Mannie. |
Table 1: Aldo tastes one of his 1989's. |
Table 1: Aldo is tired but happy. |
Aldo Vacca speaks expressively about the 1978's.
Aldo poses with the Fine Wine Geek. |
Antonio is tired but happy. |
Paul & Scott are just happy! |
Mannie and Greg. |
Greg introduces Joe to John. |
Dan, Joe, & Greg. |
All original content © Ken Vastola