Barolo and Barbaresco with the Giaimos @ Quality Italian, NYC, 9/8/2026
Frank & Elissa Giaimo were visiting from the Bay area.
They were part of the group that hosted me for a
wine dinner in San Francisco.
I wanted to return their hospitality. Many of the usual suspects were unavailable,
but I was able to put together a great group of wine lovers.
Paul and Jon made excellent arrangements for us at
Quality Italian.
Jon ordered a great selection of shared dishes.
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2004 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs -
France, Champagne
[Pop and pour.] A huge yeasty nose of citrus and ripe pears.
Bigger and richer than the Tattinger. Strong chardonnay flavors give this a bigger,
bolder taste. Superb Champagne, but I still have a slight preference for the Tattinger.
(95 points)
Appetizers
We had quite an array of appetizers: Garlic Rolls, Casella's Prosciutto, Yellowtail Crudo,
Salmon Crudo, Baked Clams, Grilled Octopus, Sausage Toast:
Flight 1: Marcarini Brunate
1971 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Slow-ox at 5pm. Tasted about 7pm.] Nose of cherries and tar. Sediment mars the taste
somewhat, but it's clearly an excellent bottle in great shape. Loads of cherries and
licorice. Delicious. (93 points)
1985 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at noon.] Big tarry nose of dried cherries. Full in the mouth with
plenty of dark cherry fruit. Holding up quite well for an 85 Barolo.
No reason to hold. Lovely. (93 points)
Pasta Course
Black Truffle Cacio Pepe, Agnolotti Porterhouse, Chicken Parm Pizza Style:
Flight 2: 2004 Produttori Riservas
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Slow-ox at 6pm. Tasted about 7:40.] Muted nose of ripe red and black fruit.
Bright sweet cherry fruit all the way through the long finish.
Drinking beautifully tonight. (93 points)
2004 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Slow-ox at 6pm. Tasted about 7:40.] Cherries, tar, and roses in the nose.
Notably more structured than the Ovello (as expected). Brad said that people refer
to Montestefano as the most Barolo Barbaresco. So much depth in this wine.
This should drink beautifully for another 20 years. (95 points)
Flight 3: 2007 Santo Stefano Albesani
2007 Castello di Neive Barbaresco Albesani Santo Stefano -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted at 4:30pm.] Gorgeous black fruit and licorice nose.
Lots of black fruit in the mouth. Still pretty young and structured.
An impressive showing. (94 points)
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Albesani di Nieve -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted at 10:30am.] Nose of black fruit, tar, and fruitcake.
Both light and full in the mouth. Expansive, long, and complex.
It doesn't have the intense fruit of the Castello di Neive, but it has an ethereal
quality that is a hallmark of Giacosa. Great balance and harmony. (96 points)
1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 5 hours.] Loads of black fruit and spice in the nose.
This is a beautiful wine. Classic richness and depth of Serralunga with that
extra polish of Gaja. Expansive and vibrant. Super long finish.
After 36 years, this still has lots of life left. (97 points)
1997 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
[Double-decanted for one hour.] Rich, black fruit nose. Like so many 97s,
this just hasn't come together. The alcohol seems high. The fruit is there,
but there's no balance. NR
Flight 5: 1996 Serralunga d'Alba
1996 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 3pm.] Beautiful nose of black fruit and spice.
This is such classic Serralunga. Huge, but harmonious.
Such power and elegance in one package. A joy to drink.
Should drink well for another 30 years. (96 points)
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 90 minutes at 10:30am.] Ethereal nose of cherries and roses.
Super long, expansive and complex. This was has always had great potential.
I think it could improve even further in another decade.
This fills my mouth and my soul. My WOTN. (98 points)
Conclusion
This was one of those great dinners that felt like a communion.
At the risk of patting myself on the back, I was particularly happy with
the pairing in each flight.
