Burgundy @ Scarlet Knife, Latham, NY, 6/8/2025

Burgundy Dinner with the Chevaliers du Tastevin
Scarlet Knife, Latham, NY, 6/8/2025

The Albany-Capital Region chapter of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin held a dinner at Scarlet Knife, in Latham, NY.

Executive chef and co-owner Paul Dimm prepared a wonderful meal that matched well with the wines. He is an alumnus of The Culinary Institute of America. His co-owner, wine aficionado James Warren, is a graduate of Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey (where I got my undergraduate degree). The name of the restaurant is a play on the name of the Rutgers sports teams, The Scarlet Knight, where Mr. Warren is the Scarlet and Chef Dimm is the Knife.

All the wines were from our chapter's cellar. None of the wines were decanted, but they were opened for some time before serving. See each wine note for details.

Click on any image with a border for a larger view of that image.

The Reception

Pink Moon Oyster, melon mignonette sauce, Prince Edward Island Canada:

Sliced filet mignon canape, charred leek aioli, confit tomato:

Forbidden Black Rice pancake, red pepper chimichurri, coriander sour cream:

And there was Crab Salad bouché pate in choux puff which I missed.

2021 Henri Germain et Fils Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Crisp, complex with good length. This is excellent Aligoté. (92 points)
There was also a non-vintage Domaine Gracieux Chevalier Crémant de Bourgogne which I did not taste.

The Dinner
The place setting:

First Course
Lobster Cannoli: Tarragon Ricotta, Apple Bourbon Butter Sauce, Lobster Glace.
This was special and original. Delicious.

2017 Domaine de l'Enclos Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
[Removed from the fridge at 5:30pm and opened. Served about 6pm.] Powerful nose of lemon custard and slate. Rich with a long finish. A terrific match to the lobster dish. At its peak, I think. (92 points)

Second Course
Duck Meatloaf with Dried Fig, Sweet Potato Miso Puree, Duck Jus.
It was a close call, but I think this was my favorite dish of the evening.

2016 François Raquillet Mercurey 1er Cru Les Naugues - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey 1er Cru
[Opened at 4:45pm. Served about 6:30pm.] Lovely red fruit nose. Still has some unresolved acidity and tannin. Lots of cherries and raspberries. I would wait a few more years. (92 points)

Announcements
Grand Sénéchal Jared Shulman mentioned that it is our wedding anniversary
(mine and Amy's, not mine and Jared's). Then we were honored with the La La Song!

Third Course
Lamb Loin with Pistachio Herb Crust, Sweet Corn Puree.
This was exquisite. Fabulous lamb.

2011 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
[Opened at 4:45pm. Served about 7pm.] This is so young, it hurts. Lots of red fruit with bright acidity. Long and complex. I would wait 10 years to drink this. (92–94 points)

Fourth Course
Roast Angus Sirloin with Porcini Mushroom Risotto, Marrow Butter, Shaved Parmesan, Veal Glace.
Getting full, but this was quite good.

2015 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
[Opened at 4:45pm. Served about 7:30pm.] Red and black fruit in the ripe, sweet nose. Classic ripe fruit vintage. This the most enjoyable of the reds tonight. Still a bit young, but the sweet fruit is so yummy. (92 points)

George visits our table

Chef Paul Dimm visits our table
In addition to being a great chef, he's a pleasure to chat with.

Announcements
Grand Sénéchal Jared Shulman pointed out that Larry Snavely had joined
the Syracuse chapter of La Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in 1985.
He was then was a key player in organizing the Albany chapter in the mid-1990s.
To honor Larry, Jared brought out the 1985 dessert wine below which we all enjoyed.
Then we did the La La Song for Larry.

Larry gets a hug from George who was one of
the original members of the Albany Chapter:

Dessert
Chevre Cheese and Apricot Tarte: Whipped Hudson Valley Creamery Goat Cheese,
Black Cherry Glaze, Almond Crunch, Apricot Sorbet, Candied Rosemary Crumb.
This was so good. Subtle with contrasting flavors and texture and not too sweet.

1985 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon
[Pop and pour.] Subtle botrytis on the lovely nose. Complex, expansive. A real treat! (92 points)