WCC Barolo & Barbaresco @ Café Capriccio, 11/17/2022

WCC Barolo and Barbaresco Blind Dinner
@ The Chef's Table in Café Capriccio,
Albany, NY (11/17/2022)

My Albany group met in the private dining room (aka The Chef's Table) in Café Capriccio to taste ten Barolos and one Barbaresco. The wines were blind to the group, but not to me since I had organized the flights.

Chef/Owner Jim Rua prepared a fabulous meal in his open kitchen. Those who know the Capital District dining scene know that Jim Rua has run Café Capriccio as one of the very best restaurants for almost four decades. Dinner started around 7:30 and ended around 10pm.

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Chef/Owner Jim Rua sets up our first course:

Flight 1.
This was a feast of a first course: Crispy Duck, Pecorino Gran Mugello from Il Palagiaccio on Grilled Bread with EVOO (see below), Yellow Pepper Stuffed with Homemade Duck Sausage, Beans & Greens with Homemade Turkey & Chicken Sausage, Frittata of Quail Eggs & Sardinian Pecorino with Black Summer Truffle, Arugula.

1967 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted for 4 hours at 1pm.] Bright cherry nose with hints of something floral. Delicate, mature, complex. Long finish of cherries and mulch. Drinking well now. (94 points)
1967 Luigi Calissano Barolo Riserva Speciale - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Big smoky nose of black cherries. Big, rich, juicy, complex, with high density for a 55 year old wine. Reminds me of the 1967 G. Mascarello Barolo and a few other 67s which had surprising richness for such an old wine. Long finish of plums and cherries and forest floor. This bottle was a gift from Bill Klapp. (94 points)
1967 Giacomo Conterno Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Dried cherries and tar in the nose. Complex, ethereal. Delicate and expansive. A beautiful wine. (96 points)
1982 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 40 minutes at 4pm.] Black cherries and chocolate nose. Silky, rich, and delicious. Still on the young side. (93 points)

Fattoria Volmiano EVOO from Marchesi Gondi.
Exquisite:

Flight 2.
Ragu of Veal with Locally Foraged Mushrooms, Leeks, Carrots, Celery, White Wine, Veal Stock, Homemade Farfalle.
This was so delicious.

1988 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 4.5 hours at 2pm.] Stunning nose of ripe red fruit. Rich, complex, long, with lots of sweet fruit. I think the modernist approach worked really well in this otherwise overly tannic vintage. (94 points)
1993 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 4 hours at 2pm.] Muted nose of chocolate-covered cherries. Juicy and tasty, but a bit monolithic. Still, quite good for the vintage. Long finish. (93 points)
2000 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 3 hours at 2pm.] Nose of cherries, tar, and licorice. Medium length. Ripe and juicy. (92 points)
2001 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 1pm.] Muted nose of ripe fruit. Black fruit and chocolate. Savory. Elegant. (93 points)

Jim tells us about the next course:

Nice shot by Jared of the next course being served:

Flight 3.
Lamb Osso Buco, Saffron Risotto (made with chicken broth), Green Beans.
So good. And perfect with the bigger wines from Serralunga.

1990 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Sweet cherry nose. The fruit is so sweet in the nose and the palate, yet there is a delicateness to the texture and flavor. Subtle complex, long finish. Goes on and on. Just gorgeous. Classic Barolo from the Barolo/La Morra side of the zone.
Day 2: Thicker, darker. Loads of dark red fruit. Long ethereal finish. (96 points)
1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Dark cherry and licorice nose. Rich, mouth filling, expansive. Wow, that one is singing tonight. Classic powerful Barolo from Serralunga and G. Conterno.
Day 2: Thick, rich, still tannic, but with loads of dark fruit. Hints of coffee. Terrific. (97 points)
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 11am.] Heavenly nose of red fruit and spice. Long and delicious. This is in a great place. Stunningly complex. This is what Giacosa is all about. Group WOTN and my WOTN.
Day2: Fantastic. Classic Giacosa nose of fruitcake and roses. Silky in the mouth in spite of the underlying tannin. Getting some dried fruit on the long finish. (98 points)

Dessert
Housemade Flourless Chocolate Cake.
This was as good as it looks. (2nd photo by Jared.)

Conclusion

No bad bottles and a lot of very good ones! And lots of great food. Many thanks to Jim Rua and his staff.

WOTN Voting (3pts each for #1, 2pts for #2, 1pt for #3)

Rank	Pts	Wine
1	18	1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto
2	11	1967 Prunotto Barbaresco Riserva
3(tie)	6	1982 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva
3(tie)	6	2001 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera
3(tie)	6	1990 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
6(tie)	4	1967 Giacomo Conterno Barolo
6(tie)	4	1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
8(tie)	3	1967 Luigi Calissano Barolo Riserva Speciale
8(tie)	3	1988 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio
8(tie)	3	1993 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc
11	2	2000 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Chiniera

People Pix

One from Jared:

My tasting notes posted from CellarTracker.