Nebbiolo Dinner with Punch Brothers
at Peck's Arcade [now known as
Donna's Italian],
Troy, NY (12/10/2015)
Click on any photo with a border for a larger view.
Gabriel Kahane opening.
The Punch Brothers:
Gabe Witcher (fiddle),
Chris "Critter" Eldridge (guitar),
Paul Kowert (bass),
Chris Thile (mandolin),
Noam Pikelny (banjo).
After an amazing concert by the
Punch Brothers at the acoustically perfect
Troy Savings Bank Music Hall,
we gathered just down the street for dinner at Peck's Arcade [now known as
Donna's Italian].
Three of the five members of the Punch Brothers were able to join us:
Chris Thile,
Gabe Witcher,
Chris "Critter" Eldridge,
as well as Gabriel Kahane
who opened for the Punch Brothers.
We were joined by fellow Nebbiolo Knight Henry Kahn, who flew up from Baltimore just for this evening,
as well as locals Jared and Amanda Shulman, and Chris Riley, who is the local rep for Polaner.
Chris Thile of the Punch Brothers band is a serious Nebbiolo lover.
He and I had met at a
wonderful dinner in NYC.
The food prepared by head chef Nick Ruscitto was excellent and well-matched to the wines.
Nick and I discussed the menu before the dinner. He understood exactly what I was looking for, and
was able to customize the menu to fit our needs. Terrific.
The food was served family style, so my food photos won't be as nice as usual, since I "plated" them,
not a professional.
Starter: Huet Vouvray Pétillant
Scallop Crudo with Lardo and Citrus
Lobster with Butternut Squash and Pecans
These both were exquisite and the sparkling Vouvray was an excellent match.
Flight 1: Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco
Wild Mushrooms with Hazelnuts, Brown Butter, and Fregola (Sardinian pasta similar to couscous).
Charred Beets with House-made Stracciatella Cheese, Pistachio Pesto, and Oil-Cured Olives.
So delicious!
-
1967 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Cavalieri del Tartufo -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted at 11am. Consumed around midnight.] Purity!!!
Who could believe that a nearly 50 year old wine could shine like this?
The extraordinary clarity of this wine was immediately obvious to everyone at the table.
Hard to put a score on this. It didn't have the complexity or structure of the Giacosas,
but what it had was the essence of pure aged Nebbiolo.
I could not have asked for more from a wine that was older than all but 2 people at the table.
(95 points)
-
1986 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted at 11am. Consumed around midnight.] Muted nose. Still tannic.
Rich in the mouth with lots of sour cherry.
Showing really well for a 30 year old base Barbaresco. (93 points)
-
1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Double-decanted at 11am. Consumed around midnight.] Cherries in the nose. Silky in the mouth.
Tannins still rough.
Something seems a bit off, but still a lot to like here. (92 points)
-
1988 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Decanted at 6pm. Consumed around midnight.] Plenty of structure and tannin typical of 1988,
but enough sweet black fruit to carry it through.
One of the better 1988 Produttoris I've had. (93 points)
Flight 2: Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
House-made Ricotta Gnocchi, Pomodoro, Basil, and Meatballs.
Chicken Cacciatore with Semolina Polenta and White Alba Truffles.
Two more terrific dishes!
-
1986 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 11am. Consumed around 12:30am.] Gorgeous sweet fruit and spice nose. Still tannic, but
plenty of ripe black fruit gives it great balance.
Once again, 1986 shows itself as an underrated vintage in Barolo. (95 points)
-
1998 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 11am. Consumed around 12:30am.] Intense, backward, austere, incredibly long.
Plenty of black fruit, but not the forward ripeness typical of 1998 Barolos.
Could use 5-10 more years based on this bottle. (94 points)
-
2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 45 minutes around 6pm. Consumed around 12:30am.] Tight nose.
Lots of lovely sweet fruit in the mouth, but not showing much else at this point.
Hard to judge such a young wine in the context of these older ones.
Certainly a very clean, well-made wine. Will have to wait to judge its future complexity.
(92-95 points)
Flight 3: Bruno Giacosa Barolo
Braised Beef Shortribs with Pumpkin Puree and Charred Broccoli.
A good match to these more powerful wines.
-
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Rocche di Castiglione Falletto -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted at 11am. Consumed around 1:30am.] This brings it to a whole nother level. Huge structure.
Sweet soft tannins. Enormous complexity. Distinctive Giacosa fruitcake. Great!
(98 points)
-
1998 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 1.5 hours at 5:30pm. Consumed around 1:30am.] Nose of dark black fruit and tar.
Like the 98 Bartolo, not what I was expecting in a 1998 Barolo.
Much more backward and structured.
This is proving to be a much more serious vintage than it was originally given credit for.
Still young with plenty of tannin and sweet black fruit. (95 points)
-
1999 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted for 1.5 hours at 5:30pm. Consumed around 1:30am.] Wow! This is simply a great wine. A gloriously fragrant nose.
Huge and expansive in the mouth. A great future for this wine, but so much pleasure right now.
(97 points)
Dessert
Ioka Valley Panna Cotta topped with Maple Granola
Tasty, but nicely light.
Conclusion
What a glorious experience. I have been fortunate to have many wonderful wine dinners,
but this one was extra special because we enjoyed their great music, then broke bread and shared wine.
Among my greatest passions and pleasures in life are fine music, fine wine, fine food, and good friends.
Tonight, we had that in spades. Very, very special.
My tasting notes posted from CellarTracker.
People Photos
Click on any photo with a border for a larger view.
Gabriel Kahane and Jared Shulman.
Amanda Shulman, Chris Riley, and Chris Thile.
Chris Riley and Chris "Critter" Eldridge.
Chris "Critter" Eldridge, Henry Kahn, and Chris Thile.
Henry Kahn, Chris Thile, and the Fine Wine Geek.
Chris Thile and the Fine Wine Geek.
The Fine Wine Geek and Gabe Witcher.
Chef Nick Ruscitto, Owner Vic Christopher, and Cory Nelson, owner of
Troy Kitchen.
All original content © Ken Vastola