Gala Dinner at Antonio Galloni's La Festa del Barolo
at Four Seasons Restaurant, NYC (2/5/2016)
This was the Friday evening gala dinner at
Antonio Galloni Vinous Media's
2016 La Festa del Barolo.
I sat with members of my regular Barolo group at the
G.D. Vajra Winery
table with their winemaker Giuseppe Vaira
and his younger brother Isidoro "Isi" Vaira who works in their vineyards.
Click on any photo for a larger view of that photo.
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Part 2 of La Festa del Barolo was a
Morning Tasting of the New Release of 2011 Barolos
the next day.
My notes and photos for the Gala Dinner at the
2015 La Festa del Barolo, the
2013 La Festa del Barolo
and the
2011 La Festa del Barolo. Each has a link to the corresponding current release tasting.
The Venue and the Reception with Sparkling Wines
The Four Seasons Restaurant
is a special and
historic
restaurant which sadly will be closing in July 2016.
The entrance on East 52nd Street.
The lobby by the entrance at street level has a sign
about the closing of this grand restaurant.
An article about the closing of the Four Seasons
and an article
about preserving the historic interior. Both in the NY Times.
An article about the end of the Four Seasons in Eater.
See
my notes on the 2015 La Festa del Barolo for more photos of the Four Seasons Restaurant.
Sparkling Wines
Great to meet Toni Fadness from Norway and see Eric Guido again.
Iggy Melito, Marc DiBella, Eric Guido, Jonathan Doft.
(Photo from Marc DiBella.)
Heading into the Legendary Pool Room for Dinner
Daniel & Amanda Moritz at the Elvio Cogno table next to ours.
My table for the evening with the G.D. Vajra Winery.
The Wines and the Food
My old Barolo group and I sat at the table for the
G.D. Vajra Winery
with their winemaker Giuseppe Vaira
and his younger brother Isidoro "Isi" Vaira who works in their vineyards.
Kelly, Isi, Greg, Henry.
Jamie, Jonathan, Giuseppe, Todd.
Jeff Kellogg, Wine Director at Maialino was also at
our table, but somehow I never got a photo,
so I stole this one from Maialino's website.
The food at dinner was excellent. Kudos to
Executive Chef Pecko Zantilaveevan and his team.
Course One
Asian Duck Consommé, Poached Quail Egg, Duck Dumplings.
This was exquisite and went quite well with the wines.
G.D. Vajra Barolo Flight 1 (8pm)
-
1982 G.D. Vajra Barolo Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted around noon.] From the Fossati vineyard in Barolo which is just next to
Bricco delle Viole. Complex tar and cherries nose. Gorgeous, elegant, and complex in the mouth.
A beautiful wine.
(94 points)
-
1985 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted around 6:30pm.] Brown color. Oxidized nose. Sherry on the palate.
This bottle was clearly mistreated at some point. (NR)
-
1990 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted around noon.] Mature, complex nose. Tasty, but a touch of VA.
Seems older than the 82, so probably not a great bottle. (92 points)
G.D. Vajra Barolo Flight 2 (8pm)
-
1995 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted around 6:30pm.] Spicy with bright cherries and drying tannins on the finish.
(91 points)
-
2008 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Light ethereal nose of cherries and truffles. Complex and young, with tasty sour cherries.
Quite enjoyable now with food, but surely even better in 10 year. (93-95 points)
G.D. Vajra Barolo Flight 3 (8:30pm)
-
1974 G.D. Vajra Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted around 6:30pm.] Heavenly nose nose of cherries and black truffles.
Tart and a little oxidized on the palate. Disappointing given the nose.
A better bottle might be great. Hard to tell from a sample of one. (87 points)
-
1979 G.D. Vajra Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double decanted around noon.] Oxidized nose. Sweet sherry in the mouth. Shot. (NR)
Course Two
Risotto with Mushrooms and Black Truffles.
This was quite delicious.
Vietti Barolo Rocche (8:30pm)
-
1974 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 8am.] Muted nose of cherries and mulch.
A touch oxidized in the mouth, but not spoiled. Still tasty and complex.
(93 points)
-
1985 Vietti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Double-decanted around 8am.] An excellent bottle. Smoky red fruit nose.
Stunningly complex and youthful with rich red fruit, bacon and tar.
Still many years ahead. (95 points)
Bartolo Mascarello in Magnums (8:40pm)
-
1962 Cantina Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Magnum (probably 1.9 liters or so). Double decanted around noon.] Faded but still lovely.
(91 points)
-
1971 Cantina Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Magnum. Probably 1.9 liters. Double decanted around 6:30pm.] Cloudy.
Must have missed some sediment in the decanting. Juicy with appealing sour cherries.
Elegant, but could have been better. (92 points)
-
1990 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Magnum. Double decanted around noon.] A stunning, vibrant nose of bright red fruit.
Gorgeous and delicious. A super long complex finish. This is a great wine.
(96 points)
-
1985 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A pour from a magnum brought by Josh L.] Lovely sour cherries.
Pales a bit after the 1990, but still very tasty. (92 points)
Two Brilliant Barolos from Weak Vintages (8:50pm)
-
1966 Cappellano Barolo Troglia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A 2.1 liter Troglia bottle. Double decanted at noon by Jamie at Chambers Street.]
Stunning spiced red fruit nose. Showing brilliantly. Complex, youthful (for a 1966).
Great length. So much that one looks for in fully mature nebbiolo. WOTN so far.
Kelly said it was his WOTN. (96 points)
For more on these unusual Troglia bottles, see the
Fine Wine Geek's
Troglia page.
-
1987 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A pour from a bottle brought by Antonio.] Stunning. Bright, rich, and charming.
Surely the wine of vintage. (94 points)
Gifts from Amanda M. (9pm)
Amanda and Daniel Moritz are a couple I've known for quite a while.
I was the one who alerted them to this event.
They generously provided me with glasses of wine from their table.
Three here, and one more later. Many thanks!
-
1990 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A glass brought over by Amanda M.] Youthful and delicious. Still young and tannic.
An excellent bottle of what I think was the last of the Brovia Monprivatos.
(94 points)
-
1990 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[A glass brought over by Amanda M.] This one was sour in a way that didn't seem right.
Others liked it much more. Maybe the glass was off? (NR)
-
1990 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A glass brought over by Amanda M.] This was simply kick-ass wine. Rich, vibrant, and complex.
(96 points)
Two More Treats from Others (9:15pm)
-
1967 Cappellano Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Brought by Iggy. Decanted in the afternoon.] After everyone at my table had gotten a glass of the
1966 Cappellano 2.1 liter bottles, I took it around to give tastes to friends around the room.
Much of my newer Barolo group (formed through Antonio's board) were sitting together.
While I was there, they handed me this bottle with a couple of ounces left.
Since I didn't bring a glass, I swigged it. It had been at least an hour since I had had the 1966,
but the sibling resemblance was quite striking. Very similar flavor profile, but the 67 was richer
(not surprising considering the vintage), while the 66 was more ethereal.
Great to taste this and to see my buddies. (95 points)
-
1958 Giacomo Conterno Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A pour from a bottle brought by Daniel M.] Wow! I think the best bottle I have ever had of this wine.
Stunningly complex in the nose and mouth. Has that great sweetness and purity of fruit that I've
had in the best bottles of 1958 Cantina Mascarello Barolo.
Still has some tannin on the super long finish. (97 points)
Course Three
Braised Short Ribs with Polenta, Root Vegetables, and Red Wine Sauce.
Not everyone was happy with theirs, but mine was one of the best short ribs I've had.
Henry's Wines (9:30pm)
-
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Arione di Serralunga - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Henry says this was pop and pour.] Muted sour cherry nose. A touch of VA, but interesting.
Not the best bottle I've had. (92 points)
-
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[Henry says this was pop and pour.] Shocked to find out this had not been decanted. This is still young,
but showing brilliantly now. Wow! Just a gorgeous and classic Giacosa Barolo with cherries and fruitcake.
(95 points)
-
1978 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà -
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
[Henry says this was pop and pour.] Complex noes and palate.
Superb bottle showing brilliantly tonight. (95 points)
Cheese Course
Two to Finish the Evening (10pm)
What a perfect way to finish this evening.
First, a winemaker I've met several times (Valter Fissore) brings me a wine that his father-in-law
made long ago. Then, a winemaker I've never met before (Vittore Alessandria) comes to our table
to give us a taste of his terrific wine. That's La Festa del Barolo!
-
1978 Marcarini Barolo Brunate - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
[A taste from a bottle brought by Valter Fissore.] Beautiful licorice and red fruit.
Just a lovely wine. These older Marcarinis (made by Elvio Cogno) are consistently gorgeous and
Burgundian. (94 points)
-
2006 Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
A bottle appeared on our table. Then the winemaker, Vittore Alessandria, appeared.
I was very impressed by this wine. Not as exotic as the G.B. Burlotto version,
but richer and more powerful. A delicious young Barolo with lots of structure.
(94 points)
Tasting notes posted from CellarTracker
Petit Fours
Other People, Other Tables, Other Wines
Jay McInerney chats with Jeff Porter.
Liz Nicholson chats with Greg and Henry.
The Cogno Table: Christy Erickson, Josh Leader, Kathi Recce,
Dan Moritz (back center), Valter Fissore (back right).
Valter Fissore likes the 1966 Cappellano that I brought.
Valter Fissore and me.
Valter Fissore and Ian D'Agata with wines made by
Valter's father in law, Elvio Cogno.
(Photo courtesy Valter Fissore)
It's good when the host can enjoy himself too!
Luca Currado stops by.
Luca Currado chats with Greg.
Bottles from Other Tables
Just to show the range of what was there.
Mark Scudiery's notes on this evening.
All original content © Ken Vastola