Emidio Pepe @ L'Artusi Restaurant, NYC, 5/7/2014

Emidio Pepe 50th Anniversary Dinner, with Chiara & Emidio Pepe
at L'Artusi Restaurant, NYC (5/7/2014)

A wonderful dinner put on by L'Artusi Restaurant and NY Vintners in the private wine cellar dining room at L'Artusi Restaurant in the West Village. The guests of honor were Emidio Pepe and his granddaughter Chiara de Iulis, who walked us through the wines and the history of the winery. This dinner was one of a number of events that the winery is participating in to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Emidio's first vintage.

Azienda Agricola Emidio Pepe is a historic winery in the town of Torano Nuovo in the province of Teramo in the region of Abruzzo. The winery is located about 15 km from the Adriatic Sea on the east coast of Italy. It produces four wines: a white from the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo grape, a white from the Pecorino grape (starting only in 2010), and a rose (Cerasuolo) and a red from the Montepulciano grape. This dinner focussed only on the Trebbiano and red Montepulciano wines.

The winery was founded by the first Emidio Pepe in 1899. His son, Giuseppe, then ran the winery. Then in 1964, the current Emidio Pepe began running the winery. Soon joined by his wife Rosa. Today his daughters Daniela and Sofia have joined him in the business. Chiara is Daniela's daughter. Emidio's oldest daughter, Stefania, has started her own winery.

For more background and tasting notes on this winery, see my write-up of a previous, longer vertical of Emidio Pepe wines.

The wines were opened but not decanted (as per Emidio's instructions) at around 5:30pm. Dinner started at around 7pm and ended around 11. It was a most enjoyable evening. The food at L'Artusi is superb. Our menu was designed and executed by Chef Erin Shambura to pair with these wines and it did so brilliantly. Chiara said that Emidio often doesn't eat much at dinners like this because he prefers the food of his home. Tonight, he ate readily, which is a testament to not only the quality of the food but also its authenticity.

The wine list and wine service at L'Artusi are also excellent. Executive Beverage Director Joe Campanale and Beverage Director Catherine Gerdes were on hand pouring the wines and adding to Chiara's commentary.

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People photos are together at the bottom of the page.

Starter

NV Gaston Chiquet Champagne Tradition - France, Champagne
From magnum. Yeasty complex balanced. Very nice. (92 points)

2009 & 2007 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Spring Pea Salad with Yogurt, Poppy Seed, and Lemon.

Quite a good match to the Trebbianos. The actual bottles disappeared before I could take a photo, so I took these from bottles in my cellar.

2009 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Medium gold color. Refreshing nose of earth and salt sea air. Stunningly complex. Full body, but light on its feet. A vivid superb wine. Some said they could easily mistake this for a very good white Burgundy. I can see why. (95 points)
2007 Emidio Pepe Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Noticeably darker gold color than the 2009 verging on amber. Light nose of sea air with just a hint of caramel. Sweet, complex, a touch of fizz. Remarkably different from the 2009, I do not think this would have the same broad appeal. (93 points)

1985 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Risotto with Morels and Parmesan.

Again, delicious and an excellent match to the wine.

1985 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Still a touch of ruby in the color, but leaning to onion skin at the edge. Stunning nose of earth and black cherries with a hint of coffee beans. I could sniff this all night long. Palate of earth and cherries, great length. A long riveting wine still full of life. Should continue to evolve well for 20 years or more. (97 points)

2000 & 2001 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Stinging Nettle Pici with Duck Ragu and Pecorino.

Again, delicious and an excellent match to the wine. A handmade pasta using nettles like spinach pasta uses spinach.

2000 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Expansive nose of mulch and cherries. Thick, black and red fruit in the mouth. Great length. Good acidity. More forward than the 2001 with which it was paired. A gorgeous wine which is already drinking well now. (93-95 points)
2001 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
More reserved nose (than the 2000, with which it was paired). Big ripe tannic in the mouth. A complete big young wine with a great future. So much structure and complexity. Should improve for 10-20 more years and drink well for 40. (95-98 points)

2003 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo in Magnum
Quail a la Plancha with Rainbow Swiss Chard and Parsnip Puree.

The quail was marinated in vinegar, but still went quite well with the wine.

2003 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
From magnum. Cooler than the previous, so the nose is closed at first, but opening up as it warms in the glass to reveal notes of earth, licorice, cocoa, and black fruits. Intense ripe black fruit in the mouth. A simply gorgeous wine. Perhaps even more enjoyable tonight than the 2000. (94-95 points)

2005 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Fennel Crusted Pork Loin with Spring Onion, Fennel Puree and Pancetta.

This was a stunning dish. The fennel went so well with the pork and it all went so well with the wine.

2005 Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Ripe nose of red fruits and spice. Very young and acidity and tannic with bright red fruit. The only wine that is really too young to enjoy tonight. Give it 5-8 years. (93-? points)

Dessert
Rhubarb Tiramisu with Mascarpone Mousse, Brachetto Syrup and Amaretti Crumbs.

This was delicious, but I was getting really full at this point.

2013 Braida (Giacomo Bologna) Brachetto d'Acqui - Italy, Piedmont, Brachetto d'Acqui DOCG
As always, a lovely light sweet fizzy wine. Not really a good match to a sweet dessert. (88 points)

Notes posted from CellarTracker.

Summary

Once again, this dinner proved to me that these wines rank among the world's greatest wines. Emidio Pepe had a dream. No according to him, he knew 50 years ago when he bottled his first vintage, that his wines would rank among the world's greatest. To be able to sit with him and enjoy his marvelous wines was a special treat. He speaks no English, but as the evening progressed, we had less and less problem communicating.

Emidio's granddaughter Chiara is a terrific ambassador for their wines. She is charming, her English is excellent, and she exhibits a great passion for her family, its history, and its wines.

People Photos