A portion of my Barolo group (the Nebbiolo Knights) got together to taste 1989 Barolo. We had some superb and interesting examples of this great vintage.

NoMad (the restaurant in the NoMad Hotel), Broadway & 28th Street in NYC was an elegant setting for this dinner. The food was excellent and well-matched to the wines. Most of the wines were delivered to the restaurant in advance, then double-decanted in mid-afternoon by Thomas Pastuszak, the sommelier, and his staff. Service is excellent at NoMad.

• NV David Leclapart Champagne Cuvée l'Amateur - France, Champagne
  [Pop and pour off the list.] Light, toasty nose with hints of citrus. Crisp Macintosh apples on the finish. (91 points)

• 1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Vigna Cicala - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 8pm.] Muted nose of cherries and mulch. Long, elegant cherry finish. Lovely. (92 points)
• 1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 8pm.] Bigger, more structured, yet still charming. Bright cherries. Long finish. Goes well with my pig appetizer. (93 points)
• 1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Bricotto Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 8pm.] Gorgeous black cherry nose. Long, expansive thick black cherry finish. Very tasty wine. (94 points)
• 1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 8pm.] Musty nose. Dry tannins and dirt in the finish. I think it is is a flawed bottle, but others do not. (NR)

• 1989 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 10pm.] Very intense, youthful black fruit and slate nose. A hint of brown sugar and black cherries in a long finish. A beautiful, harmonious wine. (94 points)
• 1989 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  [Decanted 7:30pm. Tasted about 10pm.] Mushroomy nose. Acidic and young. Licorice and black fruit. Needs more air time. (93-95 points)
• 1989 Gaja Barolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 10pm.] Nose of truffles and black plums and grilled beef. Smooth and harmonious tannins. Great. Classic 1989 Barolo. WOTN so far. (96 points)
• 1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Decanted 7:30pm. Tasted 10pm.] Dark black fruit. Silky, but still very tight. Same great wine we had at Antonio's but needed more air time. (94-96 points)

• 1989 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 10pm.] Maderized nose. Oxidized palate. Not a good bottle, but a very pretty label. I wonder if due to the art label, a previous owner had it standing up for a long time? (NR)
• 1989 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 10pm.] Exotically perfumed nose. Fragrant and exotic in the mouth. Elegant. Hard to describe. Not quite like most Barolos, but it has a classic sweetness and elegant fruit. It's the perfume that is so different. (94 points)
• 1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 10pm.] Meaty iron ore and cherry nose. Big and quite structured in the mouth. Still lots of tannin, but great red fruit on the finish. One of my top 3 tonight. (96 points)
• 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  [Double-decanted mid-afternoon. Tasted about 10pm.] Tight black fruit and mineral nose. Structured, backward, and tannic, but still stunning. A very masculine wine. My WOTN. (97 points)

This was a good showing for this vintage, if not a great one. I most definitely enjoyed most of the wines, as well as the food and the company.

Notes posted from CellarTracker

All original content © Ken Vastola